September 1, 2007
Entry Details

# 528
Andrew Sydorko
Wallaceburg, ON
Dimensions (inches):  
  Width:   25
  Height:   18
  Depth:   2
Materials:   x1 Sr. Sherwood Laminated (Birch) Wooden Hockey Stick PMP 6087
(made in Ukraine)
x1 CCM Hockey Skate Lace
1/4 Roll of Black Hockey Tape
x1 Yardworks Replacement Swede Saw Blade 24"
x2 3/16" Stainless Steel Wing Nut
x2 3/16" Stainless Steel Flat Washer
x2 3/16" Stainless Steel Carriage Bolt 1" length

Finished with 4 foam brush applications of Minwax Semi-Gloss Fast Drying Polyeurethane
This project was result of several influences, necessities and inspirations.  Several years ago while at Teacher's College, myself and other Technological Educators hosted a "build your own Swede Saw" workshop for the Outdoor Education Teachers where we made similar saws for camping and the outdoors.  Recently, now teaching Technological Design to highschool students I needed an inexpensive and engaging project, but more importantly addressed the rising concern of responsible design. (using recycled materials to fabricate new products)  My first thought was to use old hockey sticks.  Every student has at least one or two broken hockey sticks in their garage or wait long enough at the local arena and one will turn up.  I tried to imagine what could be made from the old hockey stick, and my previous work on the Swede Saw was the answer.  The project relates to the students because many play hockey, camp in the outdoors and are lacking funds for high quality lumber.  Moreover, It fills my need to address the curriculum and a handy Swede Saw at the campsite is always a welcome tool, especially for cutting green branches.  
To begin the fabrication of the Folding Swede Saw (yes it is compact) I began by cutting the stick down to proportions on the mitre saw to match the size of the replacement saw blade.  (you can make this saw smaller with smaller blades)  I used the table saw to cut 22.5 degree angles on each side of the middle support arm.  The table saw blade was raised to 3/16".  I used the mitre gauge to nibble away at the remaining material until I had a tenon approx. 5/16" thick and 3/4" wide.  Then I used a 3/8" forstner bit at the same angle on the drill press to create the mortise on the two end supports.  I drilled approx. 1" depth into each of the end supports to create the mortises. I simply used the forstner bit to nibble out the remaining material.  A sharp exacto knife worked at cleaning up the mortises.  At this point I used a file and exacto knife to clean the mortises and tenons.  I now focused on drilling the holes at the top of the end supports for where the tensioning lace would go.  For this procedure I used a 1/2" forstner bit to drill one hole in each support.  I turned my attention to the bottom of the end supoprts by first drilling a 1/4" hole on each of the end supports where the hardware and blade would fasten.  On one side of each support I counterbore to a depth of 1/8" using a 3/8 dia. drill bit.  Using the bandsaw, I cut a centered path on the thickness of the stick to accept the thickness of the blade.  The cut was made to approx. 2" along the length of the two end supports.
I then ripped a daddo using the table saw along the center length of both end support arms at a depth of 3/4".  I followed the procedure by ripping another daddo along the center of the middle support arm.  In doing so I was able to make the saw compact.  When disassembled, the blade is stored inside the daddo protecting the blade, camping gear and fingers.  I then drilled another hole in the center of the middle support 1/4" approx from the top of the middle support arm using a 3/8" forstner bit.  This extra hole would make it much easier to strap together the two end support arms with the middle support arm holding the blade in place.

A quick run over the belt sander to ease top and bottom ends of the end support arms would make the milling portion of the project complete.  I then sanded off the hockey stick logos I did not want to keep and continued sanding with 100, 150 and 200 grit sandpaper until smooth.  All holes, mortises and tenons also received handsanding.
To finish the Saw, I applied 4 coats of Minwax Semi-Gloss Fast Drying Polyeurethane.  I lightly sanded using 220 grit after the 3rd coat was dry.

To assemble the saw, I first install the blade to the end support arms.  Screw down the wing nuts on top of the washers.  Insert the middle suport arm into the two mortises.  Place the hockey skate lace through the two holes on top of the end support arms, pull lace to get even amount of length.  Simply continue placing the lace through either side of the end supports until you have only a few inches of lace remaining.  Tie a knot with the two ends of the lace.  Insert remaining blade of hockey stick into the web of lace and rotate until tight.  Secure blade against the middle support arm.  Check for tauntness and you are ready to saw.  

To collapse, carefully rotate the blade in the opposite direction until loose.  Loosen the lace and untie.  Unscrew the wing nuts and remove blade.  Tighten wing nuts in the end supports without blade.  Place blade sandwiched in between the daddo on the end supports and that of the middle support.  Lace up the 3 pieces together and pack upright in your knapsack for easy packing.  Repeat previous steps mentioned above to re-assemble.
This saw is by no means a masterpiece and lacks many of my competitor's elegance and detail to construction.  However, hopefully this saw makes up for itself through the unique use of recycled materials and compact design.  It is utilitarian in design and function.  And yes, there are room for improvements.

Judges Comments
Brian : neat idea and excellent use of reclaimed items in todays greener world
CS : Probably the coolest bucksaw ever made. Works well, too. And the craftsmanship on the joinery is excellent.
Clarence : OK but the hockey stick may do better on the ice.

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